208p DIY sets FAQ

Buying the PCBs and panel : payment, shipping, availability... ?
Buying the parts : which, where, price, BOM, Mouser cart... ?

Corrections : fixes, improvements, differences with other 208... ?
Building : difficulty, help, calibration... ?
Expanding : cards, expanders... ?
Keyboard : tracking, external controllers... ?

Buying the PCBs and panel

Are the sets in stock and available for immediate shipping ?

All the items listed on my website are in stock and immediately available (unless specified and in that case it's not possible to buy via Paypal).
I ship asap, usually within 2 working days after payment reception.

Can I pay by bank transfer and avoid Paypal fees ?
Yes please contact me for payment infos.
For EU residents, bank transfers are easy. For non EU residents, TransferWise is a very good solution.

Can you give me an invoice ?
Yes please contact me.

Do you ship to my country ?
I ship worldwide with tracking #.
Unfortunately, because of Bpost's outrageous fees, I now have to charge extra shipping costs to some destinations.

Are the nice panel and reverb frame available separately ?
hese are available as a bundle with the PCBs only. See this as a service kindly offered to people buying the PCBs.

Are the panel .fpd or PCB Gerger files available ?

Buying the parts

How much I'd end up spending on parts to stuff these ?
Say in the 1000 range as a rough estimate, with a quite large margin depending on whether you'll buy parts for this project only or in bulk (100 resistors cost 1.20 but 1 only costs 0.10 or more), on the suppliers (online Asian sellers are cheaper than the shop around the corner), on the shipping costs (all parts are not available from a single supplier), on your skills (risk of damage or wrong mounting while soldering) etc...

Do you have the BOM as a spreadsheet or a link in order to load into Mouser  ?
Wiggler sanemalkavian did one.
Wiggler thombet did a new one.
I didn't check
their content and assume no liability for their accuracy.

Which slider pots the motherboard will take ? 
Silder emplacements match both old and new slider pots.
I recommend Farnell's Alps ones (part # 1191730) however, the plastic old ones are really crappy.

Is there an alternative to the expensive C&K switches listed in the BOM ?
Taiway switches available from Small Bear are very nice and cheaper.

Any toggle switch can be used for the SPST on-off and on-off-on ones, but I don't recommend to use cheap ones, replacing a faulty switch ain't no fun.
For the DPDT on-on-on switches use Small Bear's Taiway or the BOM's C&K ones only, other ones might have a different pinout and not work on this PCB.
The PCB fits both
PCB mount (with thin lugs) and panel mount (with larger lugs) switches.

Will the old siddarthianinnovations or electricmusicstore panels fit these PCBs ?
The PCBs are 100% compatible with all the 208r panels.

Can I or should I use A726 / UA726 ?
This part is insanely and unduly expensive, therefore the PCB set includes a pair of pA726, a very good working drop-in replacement. This doesn't affect the oscillator's sound or timbre in any way and the tracking is better than
with A726 / UA726.
he cards 6 and 7 have the original layout
, so if you have money to waste and do care more of vintage hype than performance, you can use
A726 / UA726 instead of the pA726.
Beware of the cheap Chinese ones, these are most likely fakes that
at best won't work but might also damage other parts in the circuit.
Which vactrols should I use ? Excelitas, Vactec, Xvive, Coolaudio... ?
My experience showed that
a good selection on test of a vactrol is more important than its age or the manufacturer name printed on it. These parts may have a large tolerance even in a same batch of the same manufacturer.
Dave Brown compared accurately different vactrols that he has in stock.

I can't find the big 390F Sprague capacitor for board 12.
A standard easy to source 330F electrolytic capacitor will do the job perfectly.

Do 1% / 5% tolerance, carbon / metal film resistors sound and behave different ? Which ones should I use ?
5% means a 100k resistor's value will be between 95k and 105k.
1% means it will be between 99k and 101k.
So in a 5%
resistors lot, some will most probably be actually 1%.
In some cases, it's important to have a precise value resistor, in most ones 5% are enough. Also, in the 70s, 1% were much more expensive than 5%. Today the price is the same.
On the motherboard 120k 1% for the sequencer sliders should help reduce the small difference between the sliders CV at same setting, but this won't compensate for the slider's own tolerance. Anyway, I adjust the sliders by ear, not visually.
1% can be used everywhere.
I find the color stripes code on carbon film resistors easier to read than on metal film ones, which limits
the risk of using a wrong value and eases troubleshooting, but that's probably a matter of habit.
Some people believe that using parts with a wider tolerance range is required to invoke whatever magic they think is contained in old electronics. I built my 208 with all 1% parts, low drift C0G ceramics, and so on. I am very happy. I use it almost exclusively for pitched material so stability and accuracy are more important to me than witchcraft." (nice tarandfeathers quote on Muffwiggler).
Some people also believe that carbon film resistors sound warmer and metal film sound colder, or that golden legs components sound richer and NOS parts sound more vintage or more musical, or that the expo converter affects an oscillator's sound and timbre, or that the dust in an old tube amp is an essential part of its "mojo".
Some resellers have understood it very well and benefit from their ignorance and credulity.


How close to the original 70s 208 or 208r
are the PCBs ?
The PCBs are a replica of an original 70s 208 (not the modern reissue, which is very different), same traces design, same parts, with some corrections and improvements.
- Unlike the 208r, no extra wirings or traces modifications are needed and all components can be mounted as shown on the parts layout drawings
Only a small trace is missing on board 2
between pins 5 and 6 of IC1, a 2.5mm solder bridge is the only fix needed on the 208p and is mentioned in the  build notes.
- The noisy headphones out is fixed by the addition of 4 resistors on the motherboard.
- The reverb output is via a shielded cable only to avoid the MO bleed common issue, it won't work otherwise, the related trace on board 12 was removed.

- The enlarged holes for switches allow the use of both PCB mount (with thin lugs) and panel mount (with larger lugs) switches.
- The rectified pots holes emplacements avoid bending their legs and causing stress to the resistance element.
- The extra holes for the trimpots wiper on daughterboards allow the use of various types.
- The gold plated transfer card (between the panel and PCB edge connectors) fits 15mm standoffs, to make the switches nuts easier to screw than with 17mm ones.
A +5V connection to the card slot was added to work with the iProgram card or other card needing +5V. 
The iProgram card also needs pins 2 and 4 of both rows on the edge connector  to be connected to quiet and noisy grounds.  These  connections are not implemented on the PCB but details are in the build notes.

Should I do the fixes as mentioned on
Dave Brown's page ?
The traces fixes on the motherboard and board 3 are for the 208r PCBs errors that are not present on the 208p.
The only error that needs a fix on the 208p is the small missing trace on board 2
between pins 5 and 6 of IC1 as mentioned in the build notes.
Some of Dave's modifications such as the board 5 ones may be very helpful.

Should I use 1N5236 or 1N5228 on board 5 ?

Does Dunnington Audio's envelope infinite sustain fix work ?


Is this build a good project for a beginner ?
I wouldn't recommend this project to begin with.
This build is
for experienced DIYers. Having built 2 pedal kits or eurorack module kits doesn't make you an experienced DIYer.
This is a complex module. The build itself could be ok if done thoroughly and slowly but in case of problem troubleshooting might be difficult, very difficult.

I have a problem, can you help me ?
Given the complexity of this build, I do not offer individual support, related e-mails or private messages will be ignored but I'll reply if I can help on the build thread on Muffwiggler, thanks for your understanding.

Is there a detailed calibration procedure ?
Please find calibration details in the build notes and on
Dave Brown's page.

Should I do the wiring as shown in blue on boards 2, 3 and 6 ?

A hole is missing for IC3 (DG200A) on board 9.
This is normal, snip the IC's lead 7.


the 208p work with the iProgram card and Aux Expander cards? And with the Model 416 Meta Expander ? And with the cOC ?
This 208 is compatible with all the cards and expanders working with the 208r or BEMI Easel.
A very few
own features of the BEMI Easel such as the MO hi/lo range won't work since are not implemented on these PCBs, but all the other features work.
The iProgram card also needs pins 2 and 4 of both rows on the edge connector  to be connected to quiet and noisy grounds.  These  connections are not implemented on the PCB but details are in the build notes.

Does the 208p work with the Portabellabz ToolBox, BOB  and VCS3 Card ?
Yes of course !


Will you do a 218 keyboard or other modules ?

Does another keyboard work ? And a sequencer ? And a midi to CV/gate converter ?
CV/gate keyboard or sequencer, any midi to CV/gate converter will work, the 208 can be calibrated to match any scaling.
A Synovatron GTPulse is recommended to get the typical pulse needed for proper sustained/transient envelope performance.

Which is the oscillators tracking ?
The tracking via the keyboard voltage input can be 1V/oct, 1.2V/oct, 2V/oct, or any other scaling, it's a matter of calibration and  CV scaling resistors value selection, so this depends on the final user's own preference.
Properly calibrated, the tracking is good over 5 octaves.